The 9-Step Venue Equipment Buying Checklist: IGT, Board Games, and the Headphone Question

This checklist is for anyone buying equipment for a family entertainment center, arcade, trampoline park, or a bar that wants to add games. I've been handling equipment orders for 8 years, and I've personally made (and documented) 12 significant mistakes totaling roughly $46,000 in wasted budget. So now I maintain our team's checklist to prevent other people from repeating my errors.

It's not a comprehensive procurement guide. It's the stuff I check before I sign anything, because the expensive lessons already taught me why it matters.

Who should use this

If you're outfitting a new venue or adding a game room to an existing business, this is for you. It's also for the small operator who feels like vendors don't take them seriously. Stick with it—small doesn't mean unimportant; it means potential.

Here are the 9 steps. Not 8, not 10. Every one comes from a mistake I'd rather not repeat.

1. Start with the floor plan, not the machine

In my first year (2017), I bought a used redemption game because it was a deal. I didn't check the footprint against the alcove I planned to put it in. It didn't fit. I had to cut the drywall. Actually, I had to hire a contractor to move a wall. That was a $1,100 lesson.

Before you call a single vendor, get a floor plan with dimensions. Mark doors, pillars, electrical outlets, and fire exits. Then add 20% walking space around every machine. It sounds like common sense, but the shiny machine makes you forget it.

2. Write the spec list before you talk to sales

Salespeople are good at their jobs. If you call without a spec list, you'll leave the call with a more expensive machine than you needed.

For every item, write down:

• Physical dimensions
• Power requirements (voltage, plug type, amperage)
• Noise level, if it matters for your space
• Spare parts availability
• Expected maintenance interval

I once ordered 12 ticket-dispensing units without checking voltage. They arrived set to 240V. We run 120V. That was $450 wasted plus embarrassment.

3. Ask about the whole-life cost

Sticker price is the beginning. Shipping, rigging, installation, spare parts, and tech support add up.

On a $3,200 order of redemption equipment, the freight quote was $680. I didn't see that until after I signed the order form. It felt like a trick. Now I ask for a full landed-cost quote before comparing vendors.

Side note: Honestly, I've never fully understood why rush-order pricing varies so wildly between vendors. I suspect it's more art than science. But now I always ask for delivery window and late penalties in writing.

4. Separate the game software from the hardware

For ticket games, video games, and slot machines, you're buying two things: the box and the brain. The box is the cabinet. The brain is the operating system, game logic, and update path.

I prefer cabinets from major manufacturers like IGT, with IGT gaming software, because I know how the service interface works and parts are easier to find. That doesn't mean it's the only good option. It means I value being able to troubleshoot at 2 a.m. without a translator.

Make sure the supplier tells you:

• Who changes the game mix?
• How do software updates get delivered?
• What happens if the game freezes?
• Is the software license tied to the cabinet or the operator?

That last one is huge. A cheap cabinet can become worthless if the software license isn't transferable.

5. Match volatility to your audience

If you're adding Class II or Class III slots to a bar, gaming café, or truck stop, volatility matters. I like IGT low volatility slot machines for venues where guests want longer play sessions with smaller swings. They pay smaller wins more often, which keeps people in the seat longer. But I can't promise any specific performance. Anyone who guarantees revenue is overselling.

The point is to match the game profile to your customer.

• Low volatility: frequent smaller wins, longer playtime.
• High volatility: bigger jackpots, less frequent hits.

If you don't know the difference, ask the vendor to show the volatility rating for each title, not just the payout percentage.

6. Don't forget the quiet stuff

Not every dollar comes from a screen. A board game shelf can be a differentiator. Our bar hosts Trivial Pursuit board game nights twice a month, and it draws a crowd that doesn't spend much time on machines. On the staff side, we keep a copy of the Root board game for after-hours. It's not a huge revenue driver, but it builds a culture that keeps good employees.

If you're buying games like this in small quantities, don't let a supplier make you feel small. The vendor who treats a small order with respect is the one who gets to grow with you.

Small doesn't mean unimportant—it means potential.

One thing people ask me: are wired headphones safer than wireless? For public VR stations and gaming headsets, I lean wired. Not because I'm convinced wireless is dangerous—as far as I can tell, current RF exposure limits leave a big safety margin—but because wired headphones don't need pairing, don't die, and don't get stolen as easily. The word safer in a venue usually means more reliable, not just less radiation.

7. Check the guest-facing details before printing

This is the one people associate with print, but it's also true for cabinet decals, signage, and branding on ticket redemption counters. According to Pantone Color Matching System guidelines, brand-critical colors should target Delta E < 2. And commercial print generally expects 300 DPI at final size. A 72 DPI logo pulled off a website will look bad at 8 feet.

I know a venue that printed 1,000 promotional flyers with the wrong logo color because no one checked the Pantone number. The supplier matched what was sent, but the brand looked cheap. It wasn't just a printing mistake; it was a positioning mistake.

8. Run a final pre-order review

By this point, you have a spec list, a whole-life cost, and a software plan. Now do the boring step:

1. Check every model number against the quotation.
2. Verify voltage and plug type for every machine.
3. Confirm lead time in writing.
4. Add 2-3 weeks of buffer to the delivery date.
5. Save the software license keys and login information.

Skipped the final review once because we were rushing and 'it's basically the same as last time.' It wasn't. $400 mistake.

9. Document everything after delivery

When gear arrives, take photos of serial numbers, condition, and packaging before installation. Scan the manual and store the invoice in a folder that more than one person can access.

In Q1 2024, a vendor claimed our machine had been out of warranty for six months. The invoice showed the delivery date clearly. That one file saved us about $900 in repair costs, plus the headache.

Common mistakes I keep seeing in my own orders

Here's the short list of the stuff I have to guard against:

• Buying extra headphones and controllers, then realizing they're not compatible with the software.
• Hiding a beautiful new game in a corner where nobody can see it. Location is as important as the game.
• Ignoring the small stuff: cups, ticket rolls, thermal paper, cleaning supplies. These eat your margin if you don't budget for them.

Bottom line

Good buying is boring. It's checking the same things over and over until the details become habits. Use this checklist as-is or adapt it, but write the version you'd give a brand-new manager on day one. If you have a step that's saved you money or a mistake I didn't list, I'd love to hear it. I'm still collecting cheap lessons.